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Fatima R’houni – Cuisine of Tetouan, an Andalusion heritage |
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 In the late ‘60s, Fatima R'houni wrote the first book of Tetouanese recipes. In it, she reveals the culinary specialties of the white city that inherited the splendour of Andalusia and the refinement of Algeria governed by the Turkish Beys.
Fatima R'houni lives in a beautiful villa perched high in the Bouanane quarter of Tetouan. We are met by an elegant, courteous lady. The house has been built on a hillside so that the the garden is located at the back and at the same level as the Moroccan salon that is on the lower level of the house. This reception room is furnished and decorated in typical tetouanese fashion with its brocade covered benches and tapestry hiffas. An alcove at the back of the salon houses an antique copper canopied bed draped with white fabric and topped with a crown. We are hospitably greeted with a tea ceremony with a large variety of cakes that are the pride of the white city: ghouriba, baklava, decorated kaab and kaak. Fatima R'houni, the perfect hostess, serves the tea with a smile. As we sip our drinks, she tells us of her books on the gastronomy of Tetouan.
Conversation with Fatima R'houni
What drove you to write books on the cuisine of Tetouan?
Basically, it was a lack of reference books on the cuisine of Tetouan. The recipes that had been passed on from mother to daughter had not been recorded anywhere. This risked this precious culinary heritage to become lost and to be replaced by recipes from elsewhere. This was also the case for other Moroccan cities as each one has its culinary specialties.
What do you consider to be the origins of Tetouanese cuisine?
I believe that Tetouanese cuisin has very ancient roots that go back to the arrival of the Andalusians in Morocco after the fall of Granada to the Catholic kings in 1492. These Andalusions had created a refined and vibrant civilisation in several fields: the sciences, medicine, mathematics, astronomy, music, art de vivre and cuisine. They brought with them these arts especially that pertaining to their gastronomy which has been a source of pride to Morocco for centuries. So, Tetouanese cuisine was influenced by Andalusia but also by Algeria (during the Ottoman rule). Among the recipes that came from Andalusian cuisine, meat dishes such as T'faia and Amama, Seffa couscous and Mejbna cakes or massapans, knaffa known as M'narqa. Recipes coming from Ottoman ruled Algeria include baklava, ktaifs, sugar coated gazelle horns, mhancha and zammita… Tetouanese cuisine is a cultural heritage that has evolved over five centuries as it also absorbed influences from the culinary traditions of the J'bala, the Rif people as well as those of other regions of Morocco. Jewish cuisine is also a considerable influence given a large Jewish presence in Tetouan since the 16 th century.
What are the specific of Tetouanese cuisine?
Tetouanese cuisine is extremely refined. It uses quality produce and great care is taken with its presentation, especially the beautifully decorated cakes such as kaaks and kaabs. It is also closely linked to social traditions and certain dishes are only served at specific ceremonies and celebrations.
Do you think that the future generations will safeguard and perpetuate the cuisine of Tetouan?
In my opinion, the youth of today is aware of the riches and heritage that us Tetouanese cuisine. While they enjoy preparing modern dishes, they are very aware of their heritage and I am sure that, thanks to our young people, Tetouanese cuisine will continue to seduce and will live on. In conclusion, I would like to say that this book is a reflection of the authentic cooking of Tetouan and that I hope that it will be safeguarded and perpetuated by future generations.
Amina Boudraâ
Copyright saveursetcuisinedumaroc.com N° 19
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