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Riad Azama – an exotic perfume |
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 Riad Azama, thanks to its owner Daniel Person, indefatigable collector and enlightened aesthete, has been turned into an exotic dwelling where an exuberance of plants and birds flourish. A sensual journey and authentic cuisine.
On this fine morning at the end of summer, the Medina of Azzemour stretches out in gleaming white. Through its tangle of lanes, we reach riad Azama that crouches at the end of a cul de sac. A pediment sculpted with sea shells with two little windows overhangs the front door which, painted blue and set with metal studs, has two knockers. The first, symbol of prosperity, is at pedestrian height, the second, on the great carriage entrance and was used by horsemen who could enter the riad on horseback. Daniel Person, the owner of the riad, welcomes us. In the entrance hall is an alcove. Daniel Person, who confesses to a passion for the history of Azzemour and of this house explains: “This riad used to belong to a Caid (Lord) and he probably welcomed his guests while sitting in this alcove in the entrance hall which is separated from the courtyard by a door and hides it from indiscreet eyes.” The entrance is furnished with collected items: wooden chests, Berber carpets. Orientalist inspired pictures and a large white metal samovar complete the décor.
The courtyard, a truly tropical garden.
Discovering the courtyard of riad Azama is a pleasant surprise. Daniel Person, the owner has turned it into a tropical garden reminiscent of a South American patio with its bright colours and exuberant foliage. The red of the cement tiles on the ground contrasts with the bright green of the banana trees, jasmine, gardenias and other plants. Around the fountain, in a pool of green zellij, goldfish swim tirelessly. This tropical ambiance is added to by the cry of brightly coloured parrots that fly freely among the shrubs in the courtyard. Zellij tables and wrought iron chairs are the courtyards main items of furniture. The old kitchen has been converted into a small reading room. A fireplace at the back is decorated with antique objects such as the gsaa that the cook uses to roll her couscous. A collection of 19 th century etchings of John Gould's birds confirms Daniel's predilection for these feathered creatures. A round wrought iron table with a copper tray give an ethnic touch to the place. Books and magazines on Morocco are displayed in a little wall unit.
THE ROOMS – private alcoves.
Looking onto the courtyard, the El Ayachi suite, draped in red fabric, shines with these warm tones.
Daniel Person, who is in love with his town and who is constantly in search of books on its history tells us “This suite bears the name of a sultan who opposed, challenged and fought the Portuguese occupier in the 16 th century” A frieze of local plasterwork runs midway up the whitewashed walls which have then been tinted red. An alcove topped with a festoon of carved plaster contains the bed and a banquette upholstered in rich fabric serves as a couch in front of the TV set. Collecting antiques, another passion of the owner, has enabled him to find antique pieces of furniture, orientalist inspired paintings and even a sculpted camel's head signed Liliane Cousin. The adjacent bathroom is richly decorated in similar style: copper basin, walls and shower recess in tadelakt. On the first floor, the Cibola room (that refers to Estevanico – see insert) shines with the yellow and gold of its walls and furnishing fabrics. It breathes harmony with its little antique pieces – chest, writing desk…. Watercolours singed J. Herme, a former bank manager in Morocco , grace its walls. A Syrian screen inlaid with mother of pearl separates the bedroom from the tadelakt bathroom.
THE DOUIRIA – tribute to craft
The patio of the douiria** is covered by a glass house that lights the space. A ‘Bhou”, little alcove whose ceiling is covered by an insert of carved wood that still reveals, despite the ravages of time, the beauty of its work. The large room that serves as sitting/dining room has a carved plaster ceiling painted in bright colour – a marvellous piece surrounding a straight line design in its centre and an oval of floral design on each side. Even though the douiria remains Daniel's private domain, the dining room and the bhou can be used by the guests of the riad to take their meals.
THE ROOF TERRACE – A GARDEN PERGOLA
A light sea scented breeze is blowing on the roof terrace. A sitting area has been set up under a white mamouni (trellis). Climbing plants are on their way to take over the roof of this pergola. For greater comfort, wooden banquettes have received beige mattresses and cushions in shades of red. This is the perfect place to enjoy a delicious breakfast or a substantial lunch if not a candle lit romantic dinner under the star filled zemmouri sky. Opposite the living area, the chaises longues of the solarium offer a secluded session of farniente or a sunbath. Another terrace higher up overlooks a panoramic view of the ocean, the Oum Errabia river and the surrounding fields.
Azzemour is without a doubt built on the ancient city of Azama , a site occupied, in turn, by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and romans.
** Little building adjacent to the main house, the douiria has a separate entrance and a door that opens onto the first floor passage. It was used to house important guests with the utmost discretion and also permitted the eldest son to receive his friends in privacy. In the olden days it was sometimes reserved for a second wife or the favourite of the master of the house.
INTERVIEW WITH DANIEL PERSON
“ I wished to restore this riad and decorate it respecting the style and spirit of the city of Azzemour ”,
Tell us of how you were introduced to Morocco .
“I am from Brittany, a native of Roscoff in the Finistere. In 1979, I managed the foreign section of the hotel school at Thonon-les-Bains (Haute Savoie) that included 24 nationalities.
A Moroccan student whose father is the owner of the Mamora Hotel in Kenitra invited me and that is how I came to Morocco . Since then, I have returned on several occasions (twice yearly on average). I am particularly fond of the south and I went off to explore the southern regions (Ouarzazate etc…) touring widely to Laayoune and Sidi Ifni.”
Tell us the story of this riad….
In 2002, I decided to open a guest house in El Jadida. As I wanted a house with a garden, I chose this riad in Azzemour. It was necessary to clear the house of squatters then proceed with the renovation as there was no sewerage, water or electricity. Work took a year and a half. I called upon the master craftsmen from the Centre d'artisanat* d'Azzemour for the plasterwork, and the tiling on the floor as well as the bejmat tiles in the bathrooms”.
And the décor of the house…
“I love collecting antiques both in Morocco and in France . As a matter of fact it was in France that I found the camel's head in the Al Ayachi suite. I wanted to renovate the riad and decorate it respecting the style and spirit of the town of Azzemour . This was the house of a caid and I wanted to restore the art de vivre and refinement of the city.”
What about the cooking…
“We serve mainly Moroccan cuisine, Nezha, our cook, excels in the preparation of meat tajines with fresh vegetables or dried fruits as well as fish, a specialty of Azzemour.The couscous with seven vegetables including the famous pumpkin of the Doukalla, served with a tfaia (caramelised onions and raisins) remains a hallmark of traditional cuisine. When it comes to desserts, our cordon bleu chef uses fresh fruit in her salads – layered red fruit served in little glasses, apple, orange or lemon tarts. Sometimes I bake Breton inspired cakes myself.
* The centre d'artisanat d'Azzemour accommodates craftsment who specialise in the decorative arts (zellij, tadelakt, etc…) and handicrafts such as weaving needlework (carpets and embroidery..)
Amina Boudraa
Copyright saveursetcuisinedumaroc.com N° 20
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