The
Palais Tazi offers its guests a stay in a warm, spice coloured ambiance,
cooking that showcases the gastronomic specialties of Fes that can be enjoyed
and shared with friends on the terrace that looks out onto a panoramic view of
the Fes medina.
One
gains access to the Palais Tazi by way of a tree lined square in the R’cif
quarter. Building materials bear witness to the restoration works currently
taking place.A few steps allow us to
reach the palace.Children shout and
play in the square expressing gthe vitality of this part of the medina.Azzedine Tazi welcomes us in the courtyard of
the palace. In keeping with the usual layout of Fes
dwellings, this is surrounded by three large rooms where the owner shows a
permanent exhibition of carpets.He
explains that this space is the scene of receptions such as the one held
recently by a banking institution.We
set off to explore the other rooms of the palace.It is a real maze of rooms going upwards. We
get lost in the twists and turns of staircases and open doors to discover what
lies beyond, going from mild surprise to total astonishment.We allow ourselves to be led, completely
overwhelmed by the space but enjoying the sense of fun. Each landing and each
door opened reveals yet another surprise.On the first level, a sunny terrace holds promise of a relaxing
time.Opposite there is a Moroccan
salon. Large stained glass windows throw their coloured light into the room.On the right, a corridor hung with a
collection of paintings, leads to a large Moroccan salon that is used as a
restaurant and where dinners are held of a winter evening.Curtained in green, the salon contains corner
suites with round tables permitting guests to enjoy their privacy while giving
the whole room a convivial air.Higher
up on the next landing is an apartment with two richly decorated bedrooms.One is easily charmed by the warm, colourful
and sparkling ambiance of these rooms.Everywhere, there is the complete range of Fes
decorating elements: large cedar doors, ceilings of painted cedar, zellij
tiling and carved plaster. The fabrics used are precious: velvet, taffeta,
embroidered material, silks. The rooms shine with the colour of spices:
cinnamon, paprika, saffron.And
everywhere there is blue zelli, the famous blues of Fes
expressed in gentle shades. Iraqi glass windows in bright colours project an
ever changing light play according to the hour of the day.Orientalist paintings add a sensual touch.
As
he guides our visit, Azzedine Tazi tells us of his experience as a decorator
and of his passion for collecting antiques furniture and objects that has only
served to intensify his curiosity and formed his taste.Tazi affirms “I have always wanted to revive
the warm and precious ambiance of the traditional Fes
home. I have taken my time renovating this house.Work began in 1990 and went on until 1998
when my first guest house burned down” And, like a phoenix rising from its
ashes, the Palais Tazi is reborn in a different guise to realise Azzedine’s
dream: To revive the medina and to contribute to its former lustre and glory by
reconnecting with the pomp and ceremony of traditional dwellings.We continue our visit.Another effort – we climb higher to reach the
roof terrace. Two bedrooms have been installed on this last landing. They have
been furnished in the same spirit as the rest of the house, tone on tone
colours and collector’s pieces such as a table of etched copper and on the walls
– bejmat tiles – usually used for flooring.Azzedine Tazi enlightens us on this subject “I was the first to think of
cladding the walls with bejmat. It stops the dampness and I find that it
unusual.”And this is our reward.We reach the terrace or rather the succession
of terraces. The first, on the right, covered in mamouni trellis edged in green
wrought iron – offers a view one could never tire of. The life sized panorama
of the medina is breath-taking.The second
terrace is even higher and a few more steps lead us to the summer dining
room.A fireplace enables it to be
heated by a crackling fire in winter.Ir
is so pleasant to lunch with as a backdrop, terraced houses punctuated by
minarets. The call to prayer from the various mosques echo each other and
vibrate through the medina.On a fine
evening, the tables are lit at the city lights twinkle. This is the time to sit
down to enjoy a fine dinner.The menu is
rich and varied with dishes representative of the Fes
culinary arts. The owner of the palace tells us “We aim to fill any order and
satisfy any desire: from snails in broth, calves feet with chick peas and
cracced wheat, lamb tajine with okra and tomatoes, tajines of lamb tfaia or
m’hammer, fish marinated Fes style, country chicken in all kinds of sauces and
even tangia.”Azzedine Tazi is a man in
love with his profession and peerless in his role as restaurateur.He is proud to show us his guest books where
personalities from the worlds of diplomacy, the arts and fashion have expressed
their joy at having patronised one of the most prestigious tables in Fes.The list is
long and filled with celebrities – Claudia Cardinale, Claude Lelouch, Jean-Paul
Gautier – to name just a few…
Among
his plans for the future, he confides that he is in the process of renovating
two more adjoining properties, one of which is a complete ruin.The second is a real treasure in which he
hopes to open another guest house in two years’ time.He is already committed to the task.
His
motto: to revive the former Golden Age of Fes.His other pet project: to train his two children, Ghita who is studying
Communications and Nacer, still at school, so that they can succeed him in
running the palace.Nacer, his young son
declares, : I like this profession and am aware of its difficulties.In summer, my sister and I work in the Palais
Tazi. We compete in running it and compare our results.I like cooking because I like to eat.Mr Tazi, you can rest easy.The future is certain.
